The Leopard Gecko

The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularis) is one of the most popular reptiles in the pet industry due to its well-established ease of care and limited housing requirements. It is a nocturnal gecko originating in the deserts of Pakistan, northern India, Afghanistan and parts of Iran. This is a ground-dwelling animal that, unlike other geckos, possess eyelids. It can commonly be found in pet stores and pet fair shows for as little as $20, with higher end morphs ranging up to $3000.

Size

Adult geckos can reach up to 10 inches long.

Life Span

Leopard geckos have been known to live over 20 years old.

Caging

One adult leopard gecko can live comfortably in a 10 gallon terrarium. More geckos require more space, and the general rule of thumb is 10 gallons per gecko, as long as there is only one male. One gecko needs two hide areas on either side of the cage – one of these needs to be “moist” to help with shedding, and can be achieved by using a simple Tupperware container with a hole cut in it, containing moist vermiculite or sphagnum moss. Ensure that there is at least one hide per gecko, if housing in groups. Any cage should be a minimum of 1 foot tall and have a secure top to ensure there are no escapees, and to keep children, cats and/or other animals out.

Lighting and Temperature

A temperature gradient is needed to allow for thermoregulation. That is, the gecko can regulate how warm or cool it is by moving around in the tank. The ideal range needed in the tank is between 73 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The easiest way to allow for this is by using an undertank heat pad or heat tape, which are available at most pet stores or online. This goes on one side of the tank to ensure a warmer end for the gecko to go to. Hot rocks are best avoided due to overheating, often causing burns.

Because leopard geckos are nocturnal, there is no need for special lighting. For viewing purposes, however, a simple low-wattage light can be used during the day. Albino leopard geckos are light-sensitive for the first few months of their lives, but they do fine as a pet.

Substrate

Safe substrates include newspaper, paper towel, artificial turf or flat stones. Sand or other fine-particle products can be consumed by a young or debilitated gecko, which can lead to intestinal impaction. This is very uncomfortable, and if left untreated or un-noticed, can result in the death of the gecko.

Leopard geckos choose a corner of their cages as their "bathroom", which is handy to spot-clean without disrupting the entire system.

Do not expose your gecko to commercial plant soils or sands that may contain fertilizer or pesticides.

Food

Leopard geckos are carnivorous and do not eat plants, therefore live insects are necessary. Crickets are a common staple for leopard geckos, or for those who can’t put up with escape crickets, superworms are also an option if the gecko will eat them. Variety is the key to any diet, and the staple diet may be supplemented with king worms, silk worms, phoenix worms and maggots. Other insects can also be offered occasionally as treats, such as wax worms, butter worms and horn worms. Frozen pinky mice can be offered sparingly to adults.

All insects must be first given a nutritious diet before being fed to your leopard gecko. This process is called “gut loading,” and it is very important to the health of your pet. Chick or hog mash is available at all feed stores, and several good commercial diets are available for this purpose, as well. Simply place the insects in a tub of gut-load diet with a piece of potato or a carrot to serve as a source of water.

Calcium and vitamin supplementation is also necessary for the health of leopard geckos. “Dusting” insects is simply coating the feeder insects with a calcium or vitamin powder, which can be done by placing both in a bag and gently shaking the bag. Do not use both vitamin and calcium powder at the same time.

Another way to give the extra powdered supplements to your gecko is to keep a small jar lid filled with vitamin-mineral powder at all times. The gecko normally knows how much its body needs, and it will lick up the powder accordingly.

Geckos can be offered two appropriately sized insects for every inch of a leopard gecko’s total length. A meal every other day is fine. Therefore, a 4-inch-long gecko would receive eight mealworms three to four times a week

It is normal for leopard geckos to eat their shed skin.

Water

A shallow water dish with fresh water must be available at all times. It should also be stable, so it cannot be spilled. Cage substrate should be kept dry. Make sure that young and adult leopard geckos can climb easily out of the dish you use. Vitamin drops should not be added to the water, but a water conditioner can be used to remove harmful chemicals.

Handling and Temperament

In general, leopard geckos are very hardy and tolerate handling very well. It is recommended to allow your gecko to settle in its new home for about one week before handling it. For a new gecko, it is best to sit on the floor and let your gecko crawl through loose fingers and hand-over-hand for 10 to 15 minutes per day until they are accustomed to your touch. This taming process should only take a few days. Never grab or hold the gecko’s tail, or it might be dropped. Often the tail regenerates in less than 40 days.