The Kenyan Sand Boa
Sand boas are part of the group of erycine boas, which are typically small boids. The Kenyan, or East African, sand boa is orange or yellow with dark brown or black splotches with a white or yellow belly that are native to Africa, ranging through Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Libya, Chad, Niger, Yemen, Tanzania and Somalia. They are generally nocturnal, but have been known to be active in the afternoon. A variety of morphs have been discovered, which increases the range of cost from anywhere between $25 to $300 per boa.
Size
Male sand boas typically range between 15 to 18 inches long and weigh in around 70-100 grams. An aged male can reach up to 25 inches long. Females will reach about 24 to 36 inches long and weigh between 400 to 900 grams, sometimes more. They tend to be much stockier than the males. Maturity is reached between 15 months to two years of age.
Life Expectancy
Kenyan sand boas can live well into their teens, and have been known to live over 30 years.
Caging
Males can live comfortably in a 10 gallon long terrarium for their lifetime, but a female requires slightly more – 20 gallons would be sufficient. Sweater boxes also work nicely, with holes drilled or souldered in the sides for ventilation. Keep humidity low, and ensure a tight fitting lid is in place to ensure the boa cannot push it up and escape. Babies especially can fit through small holes so take care not to drill ventilation holes too large.
Sand boas, like most reptiles in the hobby, require a moist hide in their cage in order to promote healthy shedding. This is easily done by cutting a hole in the side of a Tupperware container filled with moist sphagnum moss or vermiculite.
While water dishes do not need to be present at all times, they do need one at least 2 to 3 times per week. This will help keep the humidity lower and prevent molding. A water dish can be used at all times with the use of Tupperware or similar containers, which will retain the humidity enough to prevent mold.
Lights and Temperature
As sand boas naturally dig under their substrate, no special lighting is needed. Additional heating, however, is. One end of the enclosure should have a warm spot of about 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit, and is best given by an under tank heating pad. The cool end of the tank can go down to the 70s. At night, the ambient temperature in the tank should go no lower than 70.
Substrate
Substrate is a controversy with any pet. I am personally a fan of playing safe, however, and use the substrates that have proven to have little or no side effects. Impaction is one common concern with reptiles in general, and is no different with sand boas. Common safe substrates include aspen shavings and care-fresh bedding. Newspaper does not work well when laid down, as these boas like to burrow. Shredded paper works well, as long as it is changed frequently and kept dry to prevent molding. It is well advised to keep away from sand and wood chips, which again, may cause impaction, as well as cedar shavings due to the toxicity levels.
Feeding
The general rule of feeding for snakes is to offer a meal that is approximately the same size around as the snake at its widest area. Baby sand boas which have not yet been established on frozen/thawed mice may have to be offered live, but for simplicity and ease, as well as the boas safety when it is older, live mice should be discouraged. Many pet stores and suppliers offer both live and frozen mice and rats of various sizes. Adult sand boas will take up to adult mice, but some prefer smaller prey. It often takes a bit of time to get used to each animals needs and preferences. Most sand boas will eat more readily at night due to their nocturnal nature.
Feeding snakes is best done in a separate container from its cage, for a couple of reasons. First of all, a snake may become accustomed to meals in its cage, and assume that you are its next meal one day, striking you when all you wanted to do was take it out for a little while. This can cause discomfort and uncertainty while dealing with the animal, which often leads to less handling and, therefore, an unwanted pet that you are afraid will bite when you reach into its cage if a snake hook is not used. Also, using a separate container will prevent the ingestion of substrate particles and keep the cage clean from waste and blood that can sometimes happen when a mouse gets eaten.
Baby sand boas should be offered meals every five to seven days, and adults will eat once every one to four weeks. Healthy snakes can go an unbelievably long time without food, and a month between feedings for an adult sand boa is generally no cause for concern, unless they begin to show signs of weight loss. Snakes can become obese if they eat too much or too often – if there is skin visible between the scales, this is a sign of obesity, and they should be fed less. Many people consider healthy animals to be large and fat – obesity is a risk for snakes as much as for any other animal, including humans. A fat snake is not a healthy snake!
Shedding
Many snakes will refuse food when preparing for a shed. Their color will often look dull, and they may suddenly develop foggy-looking eyes. This is referred to as going into “blue”. This fogginess will dissipate after a couple of days, and the snake should shed shortly after. A healthy, normal shed should be in one piece. If it is not, check to ensure the moist hide has not dried. Check the animal to ensure all of the old shed has been removed. The shedding process can take between one and two weeks.
© 2009 SnapDragonz
